Are smart locks safe? What the real risks are
Updated
A smart lock is as strong as its bolt, its cylinder, your door frame and your account password. Here are the real risks, from forced entry to stolen logins, and the settings that reduce them.
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Two kinds of risk: the door and the account
A smart lock adds a digital door to a physical one. The physical part decides whether someone can kick, pick or bump the door open. The digital part decides whether someone can log in, borrow a code or trick a phone. Most real-world problems come from the physical side and from weak accounts, so fix those first.
The hardware: grade, cylinder and frame
Look for an ANSI/BHMA grade. Grade 1 is the highest tier, built for heavy use and security; Grade 2 is described as excellent for most residential applications; Grade 3 is the minimum acceptable for residential locks. The grade comes from testing and covers operation, durability, strength, security and finish. A smart lock with a lower grade than your old deadbolt is a downgrade.
- Cylinder. A standard pin-tumbler keyway can be picked or bumped. A cylinder advertised as pick- and bump-resistant raises the effort needed. Do not rely on a keyway you cannot verify.
- Bolt throw. Police crime-prevention guides recommend a deadbolt that extends at least 1 inch into the frame.
- Frame and strike plate. A kick can split a frame held by short screws. These guides suggest strike plate screws about 3 inches long that reach the wall stud, and a plate at least 4 inches long.
- Door. A hollow or weathered door is a weak point whatever lock you fit.
Our front door security kit adds the strike plate and screws that matter most.
The account: passwords, two-factor and shared access
Your lock’s cloud account is a second key. The FTC advises a unique password for each device account, two-factor authentication, regular updates and turning off features you do not use. CISA notes that even if a password is compromised, an attacker cannot meet the second step and cannot get into the account.
- Use a unique password and a password manager for the lock account.
- Turn on two-factor authentication, and keep your recovery email secure.
- Review the access list every few months: remove old guests, ex-roommates and expired contractors.
- Use time-limited codes for visitors and delete one-time codes after use.
- Check the activity log for entries you do not recognize.
Auto-unlock, Bluetooth and relay tricks
Auto-unlock opens the door when your phone is near. It is convenient but trusts a signal. Proximity can misfire when you are inside near the door, and a signal can in theory be relayed from a distance. If you use it, enable it only for the entry you want, add a short delay and require the phone to be unlocked. Many people switch it off and use a keypad or a tap instead. It is the feature most worth reviewing in your settings.
Updates, networks and standards
Install firmware updates, which fix security bugs. Put the lock on a separate network if your router allows it; how to set up a separate smart home network explains how. Matter locks work across ecosystems and are designed for local control over Wi-Fi or Thread, with Bluetooth for setup; the standard is maintained by the Connectivity Standards Alliance. NIST publishes baseline cybersecurity guidance for consumer IoT devices, and the FTC’s advice above applies to any brand.
What actually reduces risk most
| Action | Effort | Reduces |
|---|---|---|
| Reinforced strike plate and 3 in screws | 20 minutes | Kick-in entry |
| Two-factor authentication | 5 minutes | Stolen password |
| Delete unused codes | 5 minutes | Old guests and ex-contacts |
| Choose a graded lock with a good cylinder | At purchase | Picking and bumping |
| Turn off auto-unlock | 2 minutes | Accidental or relayed unlock |
| Keep the physical key backup | Free | Dead battery or lockout |
Nothing is risk-free. Rules and insurer conditions differ, and a smart lock does not replace common sense. For battery planning, see what happens when a smart lock battery dies.
Shop by need
You want hardware you can trust at the door
What to look for: ANSI/BHMA graded deadbolt, a key cylinder you can re-key, auto-lock, an app that supports two-factor authentication
Typical price: $120–$300
See options on AmazonYou want local control with fewer cloud accounts
What to look for: Matter over Thread lock, a Thread border router at home, local keypad codes
Typical price: $130–$300
See options on AmazonYou rent and cannot change the door frame
What to look for: retrofit lock that keeps the landlord’s key, notifications for each unlock, keypad accessory
Typical price: $100–$280
See options on AmazonFrequently asked questions
Can a smart lock be hacked?
Any connected device can be attacked, but the common problems are weak passwords, reused logins and misused sharing, not exotic hacking. Use a unique password, two-factor authentication and updates.
Are smart locks more secure than regular locks?
Not automatically. The bolt, cylinder and door frame decide forced-entry resistance. A smart lock adds logs, codes and remote control, and also adds an account to protect.
What does ANSI/BHMA Grade 1 mean?
It is the highest residential and commercial grade in the standard, based on testing of durability and security. Grade 2 suits most homes, and Grade 3 is the minimum acceptable for residential locks.
Should I turn off auto-unlock?
It is the safer choice if you are unsure. Auto-unlock relies on your phone’s proximity, which can misfire near the door. A keypad or a tap on the phone is more deliberate.
Sources
- Allegion support — Understanding ANSI grades for locks
- Builders Hardware Manufacturers Association — ANSI/BHMA A156.36 Auxiliary Locks
- Federal Trade Commission — Securing your internet-connected devices at home
- CISA — Secure Our World: Turn on MFA
- NIST — Consumer IoT cybersecurity (NIST IR 8425)
- Seattle Police Department — Home security: door security
- Tucson Police Department — Neighborhood Watch home security booklet
- Connectivity Standards Alliance — Matter