Smart under-cabinet lighting for the kitchen

Three ways to light under the cabinets

Do not run a plug-in cord inside a wall to hide it. Flexible cords are not meant to run through walls, and code rules differ by location; use a kit made for in-wall routing or have an electrician hardwire the lights. Check local code.

Plug-in bars: the simplest route

Linked light bars connect end to end, with one cord to the wall. A smart plug controls the whole run. Dimming works only if the bars have a built-in dimmer or a compatible controller, so a smart plug alone gives on and off. The cord and plug can be hidden along the underside of the cabinet using clips. Choose bars with a UL or similar safety mark; UL says the mark means a product has been certified to meet safety standards.

LED strips: size the power supply

LED strips for kitchens are usually 12 V or 24 V direct current. A driver (power supply) turns 120 V AC into low voltage. Size it by the strip’s rated watts per foot:

1. Find the strip’s watts per foot, for example 4.5 W per foot.
2. Multiply by length. A 10 ft run uses 4.5 × 10 = 45 W.
3. Add 20% headroom: 45 × 1.2 = 54 W, so choose a 60 W driver.
4. For the current at 24 V, divide watts by volts: 45 ÷ 24 ≈ 1.9 A.

Higher voltage carries the same power at lower current, which usually allows longer runs before the far end dims. Check the maker’s maximum run length for each feed. A smart controller must match the strip’s voltage and type (single-color, tunable white or RGB) and must be rated above the strip’s amps.

Use a driver with a UL or similar listing. Put it where it can breathe, since power supplies warm up, and keep it accessible so you can replace it. Mount strips in an aluminum channel with a diffuser: the channel carries heat away and softens the dots of light.

Color quality and warmth

Under-cabinet lights show food and countertops from close range, so color quality matters. The Color Rendering Index (CRI) measures how natural colors look. ENERGY STAR requires certified LED lamps to have a CRI of at least 80; many higher-quality strips list 90 or more, which is better for food prep. Choose 2700–3000 K for a warm kitchen, 3500–4000 K for a crisper workspace, and match the tone of your ceiling lights so the room does not look patchy. A tunable white strip lets you shift through the day.

LEDs emit very little heat compared with incandescent bulbs, which release about 90% of their energy as heat, according to the Department of Energy. Still, keep strips away from burners and stovetops, and mount them in channels.

Motion sensing and scenes

• Built-in motion sensor: some bars switch on when you walk past, which suits a pantry or a dark corner.
• Hub-based motion: a small battery motion sensor under a cabinet can trigger the strip at night at 10–20% brightness, and turn it off after two minutes. See motion night lights in the bathroom for the same idea.
• Scenes: “Cooking” at full brightness and 3500 K, “Evening” at 20% and 2700 K, “Cleaning” at full brightness. Name the scenes simply so voice commands work.
• Schedules: sunset to bedtime on a smart plug is enough for many kitchens.

Safety and install notes

• Plug the driver or kit into a kitchen outlet; kitchen countertop outlets are normally GFCI-protected. ESFI notes that GFCI protection is required in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, laundry areas and outdoors.
• Do not cover drivers with insulation or stuff them into closed boxes.
• Do not exceed the controller’s or driver’s rating.
• Hardwired installs involve line voltage. Turn off the breaker, and hire a licensed electrician if you are unsure. Check local code.

For a low-wiring approach across the whole home, see smart lighting without rewiring, and for bulb basics see how to choose smart bulbs. You can also add the lights to a smart kitchen kit.