Front door security kit for a house or apartment
Updated
A smart lock, a video doorbell, a motion light, a door sensor and a reinforced strike plate: the front door shopping list with realistic prices, in the order that matters.
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Before you buy
The order matters more than the total spend: start with the frame, then the lock, then the doorbell, light and sensor.
Start with what holds the door shut
Police crime-prevention guides recommend a deadbolt throw of at least 1 inch, strike plates 4 inches or longer and case-hardened screws at least 3 inches long, plus a longer screw in one hinge that reaches the frame stud. A smart lock does not help if the frame splits. Also check that the door is solid, not hollow or weathered, and that the latch and bolt line up cleanly.
Check the door and chime first
- Door fit: read will a smart lock fit my door and measure thickness, backset and clearance.
- Doorbell power: a wired doorbell needs a compatible 16–24 V transformer and a working chime; see will a video doorbell work with my chime.
- Wi-Fi at the door: check signal strength with your phone outside the closed door.
Lock choices in brief
If you rent or want to keep your key, choose a retrofit lock. If you own and want a keypad, choose a full deadbolt. The comparison is in retrofit vs full-replacement smart lock, and safety settings are in are smart locks safe.
Lighting and privacy
Local guidance suggests lighting at front and back entries through the night, with motion lights for larger or hidden areas. Aim the doorbell at your own porch and path. Rules on recording neighbors and audio vary by state; see the Reporters Committee guide for consent by state, and check the lease or HOA.
Where each device goes
| Device | Location | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Strike plate | Door frame at the deadbolt and latch | Use screws that reach the stud |
| Smart lock | Deadbolt position | Keep a spare key |
| Video doorbell | Beside the door, at the height the maker specifies | Confirm chime compatibility |
| Porch light | Above the door or on the wall | Motion range covers the path |
| Contact sensor | Top of the door and frame | Keep gap under the maker’s limit |
Core items
Reinforced strike plate and long screws
$8–$25The first upgrade, because a lock is only as strong as the frame holding it. Long screws reach the wall stud.
What to look for: strike plate 4 in or longer, case-hardened steel screws at least 3 in long, matching your finish; hinge screws 2-1/2 in
See options on AmazonSmart deadbolt or retrofit lock
$100–$300Keyless entry, scheduled codes and a log of who came in; the key still works as a backup.
What to look for: ANSI/BHMA grade, keypad or retrofit design, key cylinder backup, auto-lock, supported thickness and backset for your door
See options on AmazonVideo doorbell
$50–$250Shows who is at the door and records motion, so you can talk without opening it.
What to look for: battery or wired, power that matches your transformer, motion zones, local storage or a clear subscription cost, weather rating
See options on AmazonMotion-activated porch light
$20–$60A lit entry makes a face visible on camera and a person easier to see.
What to look for: motion sensor with an adjustable range, a dusk-to-dawn mode, weather rating for outdoors, LED bulbs with a color temperature you like
See options on AmazonDoor contact sensor
$10–$40Tells you when the door opens or stays open, and can trigger a light or a notification.
What to look for: the same protocol as your hub (Zigbee, Z-Wave, Thread or Wi-Fi), replaceable coin cell, tamper alert
See options on AmazonNice to have
Door reinforcement kit
$20–$50Strengthens the area around the lock and the latch against kick-ins.
What to look for: steel plate for the edge of the door, correct bore size, hinge security screws
See options on AmazonPlug-in Wi-Fi extender or mesh node
$25–$100A weak signal at the front door makes doorbell and lock notifications slow.
What to look for: Wi-Fi 6 or newer, signal near the door, ethernet backhaul if possible
See options on AmazonStep by step
- Replace the short strike plate screws with 3 in screws that reach the stud, and add the longer plate.
- Check that the deadbolt extends fully with the door closed; adjust the strike if it binds.
- Install the smart lock following the maker’s steps, then set up the app, two-factor authentication and a few codes.
- Mount the doorbell, confirm power and the chime, and check the camera view for privacy.
- Install the porch light and set its range; adjust the sensitivity to avoid constant triggers.
- Stick the contact sensor on the door and frame; link it to a notification or a light.
- Test every device: lock from inside and outside, doorbell press, motion light and sensor alerts. Keep the key in a safe place.
Cheaper or upgraded versions
Budget version, about $78–$275: strike plate and screws, a basic keypad deadbolt, a motion light and a door sensor. No doorbell, no remote access, still a large step up.
Upgrade, around $450–$900: a graded smart deadbolt, a wired video doorbell with local or free storage, an outdoor light with a camera and a Thread or Zigbee hub so the door sensor and lock work locally.
Frequently asked questions
What should I buy first for front door security?
Reinforce the frame: a long strike plate and 3 in screws cost under $25 and strengthen the weakest part of most doors. Then upgrade the lock and add a light or camera.
Do I need a video doorbell and a smart lock?
No. The lock controls entry; the doorbell shows who is outside. Together they let you answer and unlock for a trusted visitor, but each works alone.
Can I install this in an apartment?
Some parts, yes: a battery doorbell, a sensor and a retrofit lock may be allowed. Ask in writing before changing the frame, strike plate or lock.
Do I need a subscription for the doorbell?
Sources
- Seattle Police Department — Home security: door security
- Tucson Police Department — Neighborhood Watch home security booklet
- Allegion support — Understanding ANSI grades for locks
- Federal Trade Commission — Using IP cameras safely
- Reporters Committee for Freedom of the Press — Reporter’s Recording Guide